'... Taken in its entirety, Tokyo is inscrutable, undecipherable, and at times alienating. But if we cut it into more digestible pieces, we begin to discern patterns, features, and local character' - you document this rather well in Tokyo Calling!
Smellscapes for sure! Sugamo smells differently than Shibuya. Reaching for the aromas of food and something traditional, a good bet are izakayas under the rails of Shimbashi and Yurakucho stations.
I have never been to Tokyo, but I really enjoyed taking a virtual urban wander in your company. I like the way you see the city, and the idea of soundscapes and smellscapes is intriguing.
Thank you, Caroline. I'm happy when I can connect with like-minded people through my writings. Of course, I've neither invented nor discovered anything new. There are people in Europe, and especially in the UK, if I remember well, who make smellscape walks and maps.
By the way, you have never been to Tokyo, and I've only spent a long weekend in London, but for a long time, I've almost been obsessed with that city. I'll be sure to check out your interesting newsletter.
Thank you, Gianni. I think virtual travel is the way forward! It's exciting to discover fellow flâneurs on Substack, and to have the chance to explore cities where I might never get the chance to go. I look forward to reading more of your posts.
I recently interviewed Alex Kerr, a respected Japan expert (I'll post the interview one of these days). In his latest book, Hidden Japan, he writes about "tourism footprint" and calls for a new philosophy of tourism: "Splendid locations like the ones in this book still exist in Japan. But you don't need to travel to them. Instead, look for something forgotten but wonderful in your own neighborhood."
A great subject to highlight. I for one had no idea Yamathon has raised charity money…I thought it was a drinking event. Consider sometime picking one of these neighborhoods and focusing deep on telling us what you see, what you find.
Oh and I love the photo of the Showa era house in Otsuka. That’s very close to Hakusan, my first home here.
Thanks, Jack. I guess the Yamathon is both a charity event AND a drinking event.
This project has just started, and I have tons of stories and photos to share. I hope you'll stay for the long run.
That neighborhood in Otsuka was by far one of my best discoveries during my walks around the Yamanote Line. I couldn't believe such a place still existed in the heart of Tokyo.
Thank you, Patrick. The area between Ueno and Nippori is steeped in history, often of the most violent kind. It's Meiji, not Taisho, but I'm sure you'll find it very interesting.
Wow, this sounds and smells and tastes like a fascinating experience. When I ride the yamanote I often think about just hopping off and seeing the these station names I know so we’ll from the street level. I’ve lived here 20 years and have gotten off at many of the stations on the circuit for various errands but to see them all…that sounds like something I’d like to do. Not necessarily with a group, I’m more of a loner, but I walk relentlessly (never for 12 hours though) and that sounds like quite the challenge. Maybe over a weekend so I’ll have time to take everything in and make a few stops. Thanks for this Informative and inspirational piece, Gianni.
Thanks for your kind words, Baye. You should definitely do it, and no need to hurry. It took me about one year to complete the loop, including a three-month stop in summer... I'm sure you know what I mean.
'... Taken in its entirety, Tokyo is inscrutable, undecipherable, and at times alienating. But if we cut it into more digestible pieces, we begin to discern patterns, features, and local character' - you document this rather well in Tokyo Calling!
I hope so! In a sense, you do the same thing for Sydney, only in a more poetic way.
Aw, thanks, Gianni. That's kind of you to say. But you're hard to beat. Tokyo Calling is top shelf.
I can only say I always look forward to your posts.
Now, if we didn't live so far from each other, it would be time for hugs and kisses, Italian style, with mandolins in the background.
Ha! Ha! Now that would be a sight to behold!
Smellscapes for sure! Sugamo smells differently than Shibuya. Reaching for the aromas of food and something traditional, a good bet are izakayas under the rails of Shimbashi and Yurakucho stations.
You are an expert when it comes to walking + food. I always enjoy your posts @ https://igorf9c.substack.com/
Thank you.
I have never been to Tokyo, but I really enjoyed taking a virtual urban wander in your company. I like the way you see the city, and the idea of soundscapes and smellscapes is intriguing.
Thank you, Caroline. I'm happy when I can connect with like-minded people through my writings. Of course, I've neither invented nor discovered anything new. There are people in Europe, and especially in the UK, if I remember well, who make smellscape walks and maps.
By the way, you have never been to Tokyo, and I've only spent a long weekend in London, but for a long time, I've almost been obsessed with that city. I'll be sure to check out your interesting newsletter.
Thank you, Gianni. I think virtual travel is the way forward! It's exciting to discover fellow flâneurs on Substack, and to have the chance to explore cities where I might never get the chance to go. I look forward to reading more of your posts.
I recently interviewed Alex Kerr, a respected Japan expert (I'll post the interview one of these days). In his latest book, Hidden Japan, he writes about "tourism footprint" and calls for a new philosophy of tourism: "Splendid locations like the ones in this book still exist in Japan. But you don't need to travel to them. Instead, look for something forgotten but wonderful in your own neighborhood."
A great subject to highlight. I for one had no idea Yamathon has raised charity money…I thought it was a drinking event. Consider sometime picking one of these neighborhoods and focusing deep on telling us what you see, what you find.
Oh and I love the photo of the Showa era house in Otsuka. That’s very close to Hakusan, my first home here.
Thanks, Jack. I guess the Yamathon is both a charity event AND a drinking event.
This project has just started, and I have tons of stories and photos to share. I hope you'll stay for the long run.
That neighborhood in Otsuka was by far one of my best discoveries during my walks around the Yamanote Line. I couldn't believe such a place still existed in the heart of Tokyo.
I once was asked to join the Otsuka matsuri. The old dudes dressed me in fundoshi. It was required.
Oh my. The horror...
I enjoy matsuri from a safe distance.
Inspirational! Both in the writing and in making me want to walk through Tokyo. Thanks
Thanks, Neill! In the meantime, I've subscribed to your newsletter:
https://retire.substack.com/
I want to travel to Bali, hopefully sooner than later, and I like your ideas about retirement.
Bali is still affordable if you avoid the tourist areas, which is primarily the southern part of the island.
This piece was such an inspiration. I have not been back to Nezu for many years, and never stopped at Nippori. I will soon, though!
Thank you, Patrick. The area between Ueno and Nippori is steeped in history, often of the most violent kind. It's Meiji, not Taisho, but I'm sure you'll find it very interesting.
Wow, this sounds and smells and tastes like a fascinating experience. When I ride the yamanote I often think about just hopping off and seeing the these station names I know so we’ll from the street level. I’ve lived here 20 years and have gotten off at many of the stations on the circuit for various errands but to see them all…that sounds like something I’d like to do. Not necessarily with a group, I’m more of a loner, but I walk relentlessly (never for 12 hours though) and that sounds like quite the challenge. Maybe over a weekend so I’ll have time to take everything in and make a few stops. Thanks for this Informative and inspirational piece, Gianni.
Thanks for your kind words, Baye. You should definitely do it, and no need to hurry. It took me about one year to complete the loop, including a three-month stop in summer... I'm sure you know what I mean.
Smellcapes! It sounds both enticing and mighty scary!
You may want to carry a gas mask with you!