As one who resides in rural Japan, it would be nice if the government would sway tourists from going to curated locations like Kyoto and promote some of the more off-the-beaten path, yet accessible places.
We live in a beautiful rural farming village with stellar views of the Minami Alps and Fuji and home to some world famous fruits, all within a two hour train ride from Tokyo.
Thanks for great piece. Japan’s media desperately needs to change and educate more. I was lucky to be brought up with the BBC and Attenborough, but this just never happened here. I wonder how we can change thinking to one that appreciates what we have here and enjoys the natural world, rather than shinning or being scared of it.
I think part of the tourism problem for more rural Japan is the lack of public transport. You really need a car to visit places and tourists find taking the train so much more convenient.
well yes. but there are plenty of nice places that *some* Japanese visit that you really have to have a car to get to. Hence effectively zero foreigners. Quite a lot of the places I've written about on my substack about Japan are like that. E.g. https://lessknownjapan.substack.com/p/yurara-muikaichi-onsen?r=7yrqz
That's a fair point—there’s definitely a tendency for the “Japan Cottagecore” image to become a kind of aesthetic shorthand, especially online. But I think the best writing about rural Japan today tries to go beyond the surface charm and really grapple with what’s happening on the ground: depopulation, aging communities, lack of infrastructure, and the challenge of sustainable tourism.
Romanticizing these places can be limiting if it stops at nostalgia—but it can also be a gateway. If it draws people in, the next step is to tell deeper, more nuanced stories about what life is really like in those areas, and what kind of support or thoughtful engagement they actually need. The “meme” may be evergreen, but maybe the conversation around it is slowly evolving after all.
Im at the frontline of the vanguard pushing past accepted memes of Japan btw.
Yes, I deal in rural real estate and lifestyles in Japan. I also advocate for extreme music, outdoor adventure, and cutting edge technological solutions in practical application.
I run network audits at ryokan in places like Hakone and Uenohara because the owners recognize the need to modernize but dont know how.
Hell, I even make sparkling fermented tea using local teas and fruits and source fermented hot sauces to combat the sleepy image of rural Japanese produce and cuisine and sell them at more metro area restaurants.
Im sure someone’ll read this and say “well shucks, that’s a lot about *you*!” Well, someone’s gotta do it and not calling attention to yourself and your inclusive activities is the best way to not have anything result from those efforts.
There are a lot of factors behind rural Japan’s decline, one of which is that the image of rural Japan is that it is in decline and there are no leaders positing otherwise. That’s a self-fulfilling suicidal prophecy that won’t help itself if there ever was one.
I hate that, not because I dislike the image itself but because the result of that image is the shit that we’re dealing with today. In isolation, cottagecore Japan is one that necessarily dies. I like rural Japan, I even like cottagecore in healthy doses, but without dynamic exposure and interaction, theyll both disappear soon enough.
I'm absolutely not against people showcasing their activity, so thanks for sharing those links. I'll be sure to check them out, and I'm sure other readers are interested too. Keep up the good work.
I like your perspective about over-tourism. I feel the same way about visiting the Galapagos. I’m glad I saw Venice in the 70s. For that matter, I’m glad I saw Japan in the 70s. Back then I was an oddity in most places I went. I suspect that’s not so true any more. Thanks.
While over-tourism is certainly becoming real, I don’t think this is a good representation of Kyoto. If you stick to the tourist hubs and commercialized areas sure, but isn’t this to be expected? Venture deeper into the city, and it’s countless neighbourhoods, and you’d be hard-pressed to find an English speaker. It’s all relative to where you are and what you’re after.
Thanks for your comment, Philip. Obviously, my statement was exaggerated and was not meant to be taken literally.
However, when you think about it, you and I are saying the same thing. The problem is that everybody is flocking to the same places. To the average traveler, Kyoto means Kiyomizudera, Kinkakuji, etc. They don't care about the other Kyoto.
Also, you said, "isn't this to be expected?" Well, I first visited Japan in 1989, and I assure you in those years, you could walk around Asakusa in Tokyo, or sit down in front of Ryoanji's rock garden, and the place was relatively empty.
'Take the Galápagos. I’ve always wanted to visit, but I won’t—because I don’t believe my presence would contribute anything meaningful' - I feel the same way. And with Easter Island. I would love to see both places.
What is it with human nature and growth fetish? We can't leave nature alone. We see the natural world with $$$ <vomit>
Right. It's hard to strike the right balance between elitism and mass tourism. I understand why everybody want to see a beautiful place, but when you have to share it with hundreds of people at the same time, I don't think it's worth it.
Interesting read.
As one who resides in rural Japan, it would be nice if the government would sway tourists from going to curated locations like Kyoto and promote some of the more off-the-beaten path, yet accessible places.
We live in a beautiful rural farming village with stellar views of the Minami Alps and Fuji and home to some world famous fruits, all within a two hour train ride from Tokyo.
Thank for your feedback. Local governments are already doing that, but as you say, the central government in Tokyo should do more in this respect.
Wish they would do more, but that’s asking a lot. So we take it on ourselves to promote our Airbnb offerings in other ways.
Thanks for great piece. Japan’s media desperately needs to change and educate more. I was lucky to be brought up with the BBC and Attenborough, but this just never happened here. I wonder how we can change thinking to one that appreciates what we have here and enjoys the natural world, rather than shinning or being scared of it.
Thank you, Jimmy. Though I'm not from the UK, I too love those BBC documentaries. Let's hope things will change in the not-so-distant future.
By the way, I see that by coincidence, we have covered Katoku Beach almost at the same time.
I'll be sure to check out your newsletter. It looks very interesting:
https://jamesryland.substack.com/
I think part of the tourism problem for more rural Japan is the lack of public transport. You really need a car to visit places and tourists find taking the train so much more convenient.
You are right. On the other hand, many Japanese seem to avoid those places too, though they do have a car.
well yes. but there are plenty of nice places that *some* Japanese visit that you really have to have a car to get to. Hence effectively zero foreigners. Quite a lot of the places I've written about on my substack about Japan are like that. E.g. https://lessknownjapan.substack.com/p/yurara-muikaichi-onsen?r=7yrqz
Thank you for sharing a link to your Substack, Francis. We sure need more information on those places.
Thanks for this piece. I've been following Alex Kerr's work for nearly a quarter century. I look forward to reading the new book.
Thanks, David. The book is quite interesting, I'm sure you will like it.
I wonder why what is clear for many - “concrete is regress” , etc. - it is not clear to governments. Money not there, IQ, environmental intelligence?
Greed is one thing. They all get a piece of the cake
Thank you for this. You were a great interviewer and you’ve organized the material superbly. I look forward to future installments.
Thank you, Alex! I'm glad you liked the interview. You can read Part 2 here:
https://giannisimone.substack.com/p/in-search-of-hidden-japan-2
And if you enjoy the interview format, please check out the sidebar on the right side of the screen (at least on a PC). There are a few more.
The Japan Cottagecore meme is reliably attractive and I guess evergreen, but gee whiz I figured at some point it’d evolve.
That's a fair point—there’s definitely a tendency for the “Japan Cottagecore” image to become a kind of aesthetic shorthand, especially online. But I think the best writing about rural Japan today tries to go beyond the surface charm and really grapple with what’s happening on the ground: depopulation, aging communities, lack of infrastructure, and the challenge of sustainable tourism.
Romanticizing these places can be limiting if it stops at nostalgia—but it can also be a gateway. If it draws people in, the next step is to tell deeper, more nuanced stories about what life is really like in those areas, and what kind of support or thoughtful engagement they actually need. The “meme” may be evergreen, but maybe the conversation around it is slowly evolving after all.
Im at the frontline of the vanguard pushing past accepted memes of Japan btw.
Yes, I deal in rural real estate and lifestyles in Japan. I also advocate for extreme music, outdoor adventure, and cutting edge technological solutions in practical application.
I publish visceral travel itineraries across rural Japan at https://mkultraman.substack.com/s/exp
I prototype novel productions in rural Japan via mixed media & AI like this music video in Minakami https://youtu.be/kznz106APKU?si=7L51bw6kEFOuR-E9
I coordinate music experiences in remote settings, like the show we did at Yasumiya Temple in Togakushi, Nagano. https://youtu.be/x_yNYDytaF0?si=2wt_jYnCW2e68rWs
I run network audits at ryokan in places like Hakone and Uenohara because the owners recognize the need to modernize but dont know how.
Hell, I even make sparkling fermented tea using local teas and fruits and source fermented hot sauces to combat the sleepy image of rural Japanese produce and cuisine and sell them at more metro area restaurants.
Im sure someone’ll read this and say “well shucks, that’s a lot about *you*!” Well, someone’s gotta do it and not calling attention to yourself and your inclusive activities is the best way to not have anything result from those efforts.
There are a lot of factors behind rural Japan’s decline, one of which is that the image of rural Japan is that it is in decline and there are no leaders positing otherwise. That’s a self-fulfilling suicidal prophecy that won’t help itself if there ever was one.
I hate that, not because I dislike the image itself but because the result of that image is the shit that we’re dealing with today. In isolation, cottagecore Japan is one that necessarily dies. I like rural Japan, I even like cottagecore in healthy doses, but without dynamic exposure and interaction, theyll both disappear soon enough.
I'm absolutely not against people showcasing their activity, so thanks for sharing those links. I'll be sure to check them out, and I'm sure other readers are interested too. Keep up the good work.
I like your perspective about over-tourism. I feel the same way about visiting the Galapagos. I’m glad I saw Venice in the 70s. For that matter, I’m glad I saw Japan in the 70s. Back then I was an oddity in most places I went. I suspect that’s not so true any more. Thanks.
Yes, two years ago I went to Kyoto and I could hardly hear a Japanese speaker.
While over-tourism is certainly becoming real, I don’t think this is a good representation of Kyoto. If you stick to the tourist hubs and commercialized areas sure, but isn’t this to be expected? Venture deeper into the city, and it’s countless neighbourhoods, and you’d be hard-pressed to find an English speaker. It’s all relative to where you are and what you’re after.
Thanks for your comment, Philip. Obviously, my statement was exaggerated and was not meant to be taken literally.
However, when you think about it, you and I are saying the same thing. The problem is that everybody is flocking to the same places. To the average traveler, Kyoto means Kiyomizudera, Kinkakuji, etc. They don't care about the other Kyoto.
Also, you said, "isn't this to be expected?" Well, I first visited Japan in 1989, and I assure you in those years, you could walk around Asakusa in Tokyo, or sit down in front of Ryoanji's rock garden, and the place was relatively empty.
Japan is most certainly still an oddity to Westerners, in most places off the Instagram-beaten path. Fear not
'Take the Galápagos. I’ve always wanted to visit, but I won’t—because I don’t believe my presence would contribute anything meaningful' - I feel the same way. And with Easter Island. I would love to see both places.
What is it with human nature and growth fetish? We can't leave nature alone. We see the natural world with $$$ <vomit>
Right. It's hard to strike the right balance between elitism and mass tourism. I understand why everybody want to see a beautiful place, but when you have to share it with hundreds of people at the same time, I don't think it's worth it.